Archive for March, 2009

Wiltshire Feature Auction

Posted in Uncategorized on March 11, 2009 by AB

After weeks of talking about it, we’re just about to launch our feature auction of wines from a Wiltshire Cellar (mentioned here). I thought some authoritative notes might be of interest to potential bidders and Jancis Robinson has kindly agreed to let me quote hers.

Ch Kirwan 1970 Margaux 17.5 Drink 1995-2015
Wilts cellar. Lovely mellow, glowing colour. Much drier and tighter than the 1975. Intense, dry and sturdy – less obviously Margaux than the 1975. Much more marked by 1970’s firm, not to say rather uncompromising, backbone than the mellower 1975.

Ch Gruaud Larose 1982 St- Julien 18.5 Drink 1995-2018
Wilts cellar. Just starting to stray out of Broadbent into Parker territory here… This was rich, round and velvety with the most sumptuous texture yet was not remotely lacking in freshness. Round, complete and utterly satisfying. Chock full of pleasure and a delight with the 24- hour lamb with truffle creamed potato
and buttered celery.

Ch Palmer 1961 Margaux 19 Drink 1975-2015
Wilts cellar – five bottles left! I feel so privileged to have tasted this wine on so many occasions, and especially to have been given a chance to enjoy this bottle so late in its incredibly extended lifespan. What a miracle wine. (Humorist Miles Kington was sent by his brewer father to pick grapes in Bordeaux and ended up at Palmer in 1961, but the wine virus didn’t take.) Still wonderfully sweet on the nose and sinewy, positively willowy, on the palate. Quite extraordinarily persistent. Not big. Such a different animal from so many red bordeaux made today. Now taking on some slightly gamey notes with a little dustiness but lots of life and energy. It faded a little in the glass after 10 minutes or so with the acidity becoming more prominent, and I would therefore not decant this wine ahead of time if I were in the enviable position of serving it, but if the Gruaud was a wine of pleasure, this is a wine to marvel at.